Fortissima

Lauded lady: When she's not wearing her whites, Forte is as elegant as her restaurant.

Photo By: Michael T. Regan

Maria Forte's culinary memories of Italy and South Philadelphia could fill two lifetimes.

by Deborah Bolling

Even in her 2-inch platform heels, Maria Forte is barely 5 feet tall. Her diminutive size, though, is absolutely no reflection of her love of fine food and her zest for life.

Forte is head chef and owner of Cucina Forte, a small but elegant Italian eatery in the heart of Bella Vista. She grew up in a region not far from Rome, Monteroduni, in an area with a population of just 4,000 people. Thirty-five years ago, when she arrived in the United States, Forte did a whole lot of things to make a buck -- except cook.

"I worked in delis, I worked in stores, I did a lot of decorating and also I did knitting -- I still even have my knitting machine," she says. After doing an assortment of jobs, in 1989 she and husband Tony opened Alla Letizia, an Italian restaurant named for her mother, located on East Passyunk Avenue. For nearly 40 years, her family in Italy had a restaurant bearing the same name. She says people still talk about how good the food was.

"Cooking is a tradition in my family," she says. "In Italy, my father's cousin used to be a private chef for a prince and princess. And even my husband's family were very good chefs, too. So, it's on both sides.

"I was afraid to open a restaurant here because I never went to school in this country," she says, in an accent still thick and rich in tone. "But, I decided I wanted to work for myself 'cause I don't like working for other people."

After four years, the couple closed Alla Letizia and opened a place on Eighth Street, Mezza Luna. She says she's still part owner of Mezza Luna, but just until an equitable settlement is reached with the new proprietors. Next April, Forte's looking forward to celebrating the three-year anniversary of her latest venture.

"I'm very, very happy. And I'm so lucky, I'm a very lucky woman," she says, sitting in the laid-back bistro. "People tell me, "You make your own luck, Maria.' But I tell them, "No, God made me lucky.'"

On this weeknight, the dimly lit dining room is half-full. Rising above the muffled chatter and the clinking of plates and flatware is the soulful groan of satisfied customers. Well-respected by food lovers throughout the city, Forte has been recognized by Philadelphia Magazine for her unique assortment of homemade gnocchi. She won the coveted "Best of Philly" award for them two years in a row.

Shortly before opening Cucina Forte, Forte’s husband died. The two had known each other for 45 years.

"He’s the love of my life, still today," she says, clasping her hands. Forte’s hands are small; short nails bear the remnants of a long day’s work. When she talks, her fingers become animated, moving with her lips. Petite and understated, she wears only one piece of jewelry: a simple gold wedding band.

"My husband, he protects me and gives me strength," she says. "I dream of him every night. In the beginning, we didn’t know the language, we didn’t know no one, but we worked hard, my husband and I. Now, look at all I have."

Besides the restaurant, Forte owns two homes in South Philly and another in Sicklerville, N.J.

"I have a beautiful garden in New Jersey," she gushes. "With flowers and lots of vegetables. Yesterday, I planted onions and potatoes. It’s that time of year, you know. And I even keep chickens and ducks there. I call them my kids. Of course, I’d never eat them because I love them -- but I do eat their eggs."

Forte works long hours, most days serving both lunch and dinner. As the restaurant’s owner and only full-time chef, she’s responsible for making sure that everything goes right -- including the daily shopping.

"I do all my shopping on Ninth Street," she says. "Oh, they have wonderful stuff there: beautiful broccoli rabe, string beans, arugula. I’m always at DiBruno’s, and Esposito’s has absolutely the best meat of anywhere. Oh, and Anastasio -- I really love them. The fish is always so nice and fresh."

Even though cooking is Forte’s obvious passion, she describes herself as generally "creative."

"I have three cousins who are very good artists," she boasts. "And I love to do that kind of thing myself. I always decorate the house; I’m very good at painting. I like to change the drapes and [rearrange] the knickknacks. I love to change around my tables and chairs. I never went to school for it, but I love it anyway. Maybe I’ll go to school one day before I die."

Nearly 65, Forte says the pressure of being the restaurant’s sole proprietor doesn’t overwhelm her.

"I don’t get tired," she says, still full of energy well into the evening. "For me, there’s something special about being in your own place. I put my whole heart into my cooking. And the people make me feel like a princess. I’m a queen here. This is my place, my life, my home, my everything."

Cucina Forte, 768 S. Eighth St., 215-238-0778.