Also this issue:

Hungry For Praise
Eg’-Zolt serves up dictionary definition soul food.
-Elisa Ludwig

July 17-23, 2003

food

Crowning Glory

by Alex Richmond

Note to the hordes of faithful Bella Vista residents who queue up outside Sabrina’s and the Morning Glory: You now have somewhere else to go on those lazy weekend mornings. Rejoice, for the Royal Tavern is now open for brunch. Just please don’t go all at once and ruin it for those of us who already knew.

The typically reticent owners of the Royal (Bryan Dilworth, Dave Frank and Steve Simons) chose not to publicize brunch to let their staff find its bearings. As a result, each time we went it was quiet, with plenty of elbow room and time for kibitzing about decor on Trading Spaces, on the Royal's TV.

Chef Mary-Kate Ralston, who developed the brunch menu over at Standard Tap, worked with chef Drew Ashmore (who honed his culinary chops at Marmont), incorporating several brunch specials to serve along with the regular menu, including eggs Benedict, fruit and yogurt parfait with granola and smoothies, perfect for hot summer days.

Ralston and Ashmore pick produce grown within 75 miles of their kitchen; they hit Washington Avenue markets La Tienda and Oriental Supermarket, get yogurt from Pequea Valley farm in Lancaster and granola from Metropolitan Bakery.

Good, strong coffee ($1.50) from Anthony's (Italian Market blend) is refilled often, though that may change once the crowds set in.

Cucumber-avocado gazpacho ($4.50) was a refreshing guacamole puree. Though we were surprised at seeing pea-green gazpacho instead of the expected red tomato base, the combination of light cucumbers and rich avocados was cool and unusual. Chopped cilantro, tomato, red onion and jalapeño added heft to the already thick soup.

French toast with fruit and syrup ($8) was wonderful. The secret? Coconut milk in the egg batter. The week we enjoyed it, thickly cut seeded Sarcone's baguette was topped with grilled pineapple; the fruit changes weekly, depending on market choice.

The enchilada omelet ($8) was a hit with me, simply because I love anything you can pick up and eat with your hands. Fluffy eggs and jack cheese are wrapped in a tortilla,and served with seasoned tomato, jalapeño, onion and homemade sour cream sauce. The frittata ($7) is as dense as quiche. Potatoes and mushrooms make it extra-savory.

The Royal's BLT ($6) makes for a satisfying brunch alternative. The malt vinegar mayonnaise dipping sauce Ralston serves alongside fries uses house mayonnaise made by hand, as if you needed encouragement.

Ralston plans to expand the brunch menu in coming weeks, to add home fries and pancakes. Plus, you can get mimosas, bloody marys or any other cocktail with your meal, giving the Royal an edge in the Bella Vista brunch scene. I can see the line forming now.

Royal Tavern, 937 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-389-6694. Brunch served Saturdays and Sundays, 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m.