offthemenu

by Juliet Fletcher

When it comes to eating healthily, just talking sense isn’t enough. It’s about acting on it, says Joel Steele -- and that counts even more so when opening a health-conscious eatery. In preparation for his own business, marketing unusual, nutritious hoagies, sandwiches and snacks as if they were fast food, Steele recalls visiting "every [health] concept [restaurant] from California to New England," seeing what worked and what was simply distracting. Thinkers Grille, which opened this week on Fourth Street near Chestnut, where El Mariachi used to be, began as a project while Steele was completing Richard Stockton College in 2000, and was on his mind while he worked as a personal trainer for Philadelphia Sports Club. Now, Steele believes many other kitchens labeled healthy haven’t truly earned it. "It’s not enough to call a dish nutritious; you must ensure it is." His formula is to use "familiar, comfortable ingredients in smart ways" -- holding onto such favorite dishes as burgers (salmon rather than beef) and a turkey meatball sandwich -- while avoiding hidden traps. Even the cheese sauce on the tuna melt contains only 60 calories.

Two additions suggest Thinkers Grille might be, well, thinking more than the next fast-food joint: Smart Meal deals offer fries and a beverage -- only the fries are all baked, and replaceable with soy chips if preferred. And, besides accommodating every diet, Steele goes all the way in stretching our acceptance of health foods: a Hot Smoothie, made with fruit and oatmeal, which he claims to have invented, is available in nine flavors including French Toast and Blueberry Muffin. (Sandwiches and salads are priced $3.49-$4.49; smoothies are $2.49-$2.99 each.) And Steele's not afraid to play the tough trainer: "Philadelphians need to be told what to eat -- and for years they've been told to eat fast food." Do we need telling twice? (The Bourse Building, 111 S. Independence Mall E., 215-625-THIN.)

Bastille Day fever grips the Fairmount area this Sat., July 12: Eastern State Penitentiary hosts all-day raucous celebrations, culminating in the sieging of the walls and capture of Marie Antoinette -- a dreadful monarch, sure, but an overlooked promoter of baked goods. London Grill co-owner Terry McNally will play the bewigged queen, (disgraced) guest at London Grill's ceremonial feast of "crepes, charcuterie and champagne." Visit www.easternstate.org for more information.

In Short:

Opening now: El Fuego, offering California-style burritos on the spot that previously housed Mezzo Fico. (723 Walnut St., 215-592-1901.)

Jones, whose comfort food has got hipsters eating mac and cheese again, has now expanded its hours to include Saturday brunch, from 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. (Seventh and Chestnut sts., 215-223-5663.)

Send tips to juliet@citypaper.net.