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A Ferry Good Place
A little bit Asian, a little bit French, Sprigs helping to transform East Falls.
-Maxine Keyser

May 8-14, 2003

food

Odds and Ends

by Maxine Keyser

Diners along the corridor from the city to West Chester usually head straight for one of West Chester’s excellent restaurants, like Gilmore’s, or stop along the way for a Spanish fix at La Encina in East Goshen. Now there’s a reason to stop in Newtown Square -- a stylish spot with a world-class chef: Roux 3. Jay Caputo, the executive chef and a graduate of the CIA, has worked at distinguished kitchens such as Farallon in San Francisco, and under the tutelage of Bradley Ogden at The Lark Creek Inn in Larkspur, Calif. He brings to Roux 3 an idea of complex flavors incorporating ingredients fresh from the farm, and a cohesive staff composed of many men and women he has worked with in the past. He also has Paul Frank, ex-sommelier at Dilworthtown Inn, to supervise an excellent wine list, with many choices by the glass.

We felt the staff's enthusiasm as we settled in for a meal recently beneath a ceiling punctuated by glass discs that look like UFOs. The decor itself is more retro than anything else, done in deep, rich colors and complemented by glass mosaics.

There's much to recommend, including a clever pairing of tuna tartare mounded next to a cup of intense Dungeness crab bisque, and Caputo's use of wild mushrooms, like in a soup with chestnuts or in a tart with cipollini onions. We dined on pan-roasted skate (my favorite fish) over black lentils, and crisp chicken with a cauliflower mousseline. Many of Caputo's creations use seasonal foods but one thing that will probably be a constant is his "mac and cheese" with mascarpone and Gruyère cheeses and black truffles.

Desserts are not to be missed, for they show the same adherence to what's hot. Beignets, so popular now, come with banana-pecan ice cream, and even tapioca haters will like this mango and coconut combo with tamarind syrup.

ROUX 3

4755 W. Chester Pike, Newtown Square, 610-356-9500

Appetizers, $6-$18; entrees, $17-$29

Mon.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-10 p.m.; Sun., 4-9 p.m.

Wheelchair accessible. Smoking permitted in the bar. Reservations recommended. All major credit cards.

A recent meal at Striped Bass (1500 Walnut St., 215-732-4444) demonstrated that Terence Feury is as in command as ever. The ceviche of thinly sliced divers scallops, and butter-poached lobster were incomparable, except perhaps at Le Bernadin, his alma mater. It's just possible that he has passed them by.

At Django (526 S. Fourth St., 215-922-7151), Brian Sikora and Aimee Olexy's realm, it's increasingly difficult to get a table. That's probably because the food gets better and better and the menu ever more experimental. The funky atmosphere and superb cuisine make it one of the surprise hits of all the BYOBs.