A Ferry Good Place

Wonder of the world: Sprigsâ chocolate pyramid with peanut butter ganache and Tahitian ice cream. Photo By: Michael T. Regan

A little bit Asian, a little bit French, Sprigs helping to transform East Falls.

by Maxine Keyser

East Falls never had a real restaurant, except for the ill-fated, hard-edged Indigo, which appeared on Midvale Avenue a few years ago. But now, on a warm spring evening, the corner of Ridge and Midvale looks more and more like Old City. There’s Johnny Mañana’s right on the corner with a large red pepper as its logo, and all kinds of young people spilling into the streets from the colorful interior. The food is Mexican of the taco-burrito variety, and there are many young couples with babies nibbling on tortilla chips, as well as sweet young things. The margaritas, in handsome hand-painted glasses, are dull, as are the chips -- stick with the impressive list of tequilas. Across the street is Sprigs, which has opened in Indigo’s former spot.

What a difference a family can make. The Ferrys -- Sally, Frank and son Howard Greene -- have gotten rid of the original industrial decor and fashioned this into a pleasant little bistro. With brick walls encircled by banquettes and giant kitchen utensils for decoration, this has become a cozy and inviting room. Dad Frank runs the bar in the other room, but it is Sally who greets us. She has always worked "front-of-the-house" positions in places like the Bellevue Park Hyatt, after she and Greene went to The Restaurant School. Greene helped to open Buddakan and did some time at Striped Bass and Brasserie Perrier. He then worked for Daniel Boulud at Daniel in New York, and now he's doing his thing in East Falls -- lucky us. He even does an amuse bouche -- a dab of salmon tartar with a jalapeño crème fraîche.

The menu here follows the 1-2-3 format in that you can choose from either category or all of them, or just two, to make a meal. Right away, Greene shows off his expertise. A gateau of Belgian endive is truly a piece montée, a sculptured tower of endive spears, Roquefort cheese and "Owen's candied walnuts" (the menu is littered with names -- all family members, I'm told), held aloft by slices of cucumber. The signature salad features haricot verts frisée from California, and crostini of Brie on the side. All ingredients are sparklingly fresh and treated with the utmost integrity. The grilled Connecticut clams are sweet and toothsome, and served "Mikey style" with plain drawn butter, while the tuna tempura roll, with touches of avocado and jalapeños within and a crispy exterior, comes to you as diagonally cut towers, sitting on a remoulade of jalapeños, and is anything but simple. The taste is what counts, though, and it shows that Greene has a grasp of Asian flavorings.

There's a small, inexpensive wine list with the most expensive wine being a Frogs Leap Cabernet Sauvignon at $57. We try a bottle of Dry Creek Zinfandel for $25, and are pleased with how it complements the house special of "Lizzy's slow-roasted short ribs." They, of course, are melting off the bone, fat shards of meat to mix with "Nana's mashed potatoes" and a light carrot mint salad. This is clearly no place to diet, for the portions are substantial and every accompaniment is interesting in itself. Though the pleasant servers are almost as slow-roasted as the short ribs, we don't mind, and soon are digging into a rare fillet topped with blue cheese, and sided by garlic mashed potatoes and haricots verts, and a sirloin strip that has the invigorating lift of multi-peppercorns, grounded in a pile of pretty good frites.

"Zack's whole roasted chicken" runs over the plate, with dusted onions (sautéed), a rice pilaf and oven-dried tomatoes to moisten the whole thing with their dulcet juices. This is definitely a family affair -- they even have Granny's roasted yams with the grilled pork chop.

It all works well, though. After a sampler dessert of ice creams and ices that is about all we can manage, we talk to Sally Ferry, and feel her enthusiasm and energy. They are constantly on top of things -- trying new items and sources, and sharpening the ones they already have -- and are determined to make their restaurant a success. They use Laguiole steak knives, bien sur. And it's not just for the neighborhood, for I spy a number of Center City folk, lured by the warmth, the pleasant pricing and good food, and by the ease of parking. I'm glad that Sprigs -- and spring -- are finally here.

Sprigs

3749 Midvale Ave., 215-849-9248

Appetizers, $5-$12; entrees, $17-$23

Sun., 3-9 p.m.; Tue.-Thu., 5-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m.

Wheelchair accessible. Smoking is permitted at the bar. Reservations recommended on weekends. All major credit cards.