Also this issue:

Forever in Blue Jeans
Denim gets a makeover at Center City's newest pricey nightspot.
-A.D. Amorosi

Six American Chocolate Classics

Icepack
-A.D. Amorosi

February 6-12, 2003

naked city

Hot Chocolates

CHOCOLATE, WITH A TWIST: Pretzels in milk, dark and white chocolate coatings at the Pennsylvania General Store.

The 10 best chocolate things in Philadelphia.

by Francine Maroukian

It's been referred to as deep, rich, smooth, sinful, decadent, deadly. But there's only one word to describe such a complex flavor: chocolate.

Here are Philadelphia's 10 best incarnations.

1. Chocolate-covered pretzels. A little sweet, a little salty, a little twisted. With dark, milk or white chocolate coating, $9.95 per pound from the Pennsylvania General Store, Reading Terminal Market, 45 N. 12th St., 215-592-0455.

2. Tastykake Chocolate Cupcakes. There's a reason they've been around for 84 years: The crème-filled or solid base is topped with chocolate icing that peels right off in one delicious disc when refrigerated. Available at local supermarkets and convenience stores, or share the wealth and send a supply to homesick Philadelphians. 800-33-TASTY.

3. Nodding Head’s chocolate stout. While he won't reveal the exact quantity, brewer Brandon Greenwood will confess that a "substantial" quantity of Ghirardelli dark, semi-sweet chocolate goes into his chocolate stout. "It's like liquid silk that finishes with a hint of chocolate." For $4 a pint, you can try it yourself. Nodding Head Brewery and Restaurant, 1516 Sansom St., 215-569-9525, www.noddinghead.com.

4. Maron’s chocolate-covered homemade marshmallows. Available in two sizes and coated with dark or milk chocolate, these are nothing less than little squares of confection perfection. $15 per pound. Maron Famous Candies, 107 S. 18th St., 215-988-9992.

5. Chocolate soufflé from the Fountain Restaurant in the Four Seasons. Topped with a thin chocolate disc (bearing an imprint of the hotel's logo) and underscored by vanilla bean crème chantilly, this soufflé is full frontal French. $12.50 on the Fountain dessert menu, and may also be ordered in the Swann Lounge between 8 and 10 p.m. Four Seasons Hotel, One Logan Square, 215-963-1500.

6. Chocolate cigar from Steven Starr’s Alma De Cuba. A rolled almond cake wrapped in chocolate mousse, dusted with cocoa powder and served with dulce de leche ice ($8). Bearing an Alma De Cuba paper band, this may be the only Cuban cigar you will ever get your hands on. Alma De Cuba, 1623 Walnut St., 215-988-1799.

7. Caesar Bradley, chocolate sommelier at the Ritz-Carlton. Is it silly to have a grown man tell you what kind of hot chocolate you should be drinking? Only after a visit to The Rotunda of the Ritz when Bradley is "on duty" customizing your drink and revealing the deep dark secrets of chocolate, will you know the truth: It's as silly as you want it to be. With a wide range of flavors and toppings, prices range from $4-$8. Ritz-Carlton, 10 S. Broad St., 215-735-7700.

8. Do it yourself. Michele Urvater (author of the Monday to Friday Cookbook) has written the chocolate cake lover's handbook. They're all in there, from Aztec Devil's Food and Classic Brownie Cakes to Chestnut Chocolate Meringue and Berry White Chocolate Cheesecake. Chocolate Cake: From the Simple to the Sublime (Broadway Books, $35), at local bookstores or through www.amazon.com.

9. Jubilee chocolates. Fresh off the cover of February's Gourmet (extolled as their "favorite chocolates"), Philadelphia's Jubilee racks up national press (NY Times, 1/29/03) while continuing to turn out highly prized creations in highly original flavor infusions, like star anise, saffron and rosewater, and lavender honey. About $20 for 15 pieces plus shipping. Call 800-747-4808 or order online at www.jubileechocolates.com.

10. Petit 4’s chocolate chambord tart. This creamy combination from the tiny but supercharged kitchen of Petit 4 Pastry Studio is served on a chocolate shortbread crust and topped with fresh raspberries. In two sizes: individual (3 inch for $5) and group (9 inch for $32, serves 10). Petit 4 Pastry Studio, 160 N. Third St., 215-627-8440.