Also this issue:

Girlfriends: Valerie Ferguson and Melonease Shaw

Its Your Party
Everything else you need to know about holiday entertaining.

Carm, All Ye Faithful
How to celebrate the holidays Sopranos-style.(Menu and recipe adapted from The Sopranos Family Cookbook)
-Elisa Ludwig

The Feasting Begins
A round of restaurant parties ushers in the holidays with panache.
-Maxine Keyser

Maxis minis
-Maxine Keyser

World Party
Local restaurants take cues from Italy, Cuba and the U.S. of A.
-David Warner

December 12-18, 2002

cover story

Welcome to the Pub: Mary Ellen and Chris Mullins

Beers to you: The Mullinses offer up a few more mugfuls of their favorite beverage. Photo By: Michael T. Regan

If Oliver Twist had been Irish instead of English (and endowed with a serious trust fund), he might have opened McGillin’s Olde Ale House, a picturesque pub set along the slender alley of Drury Street. No matter how many times you’ve been, there is still an off-the-beaten-path sense of discovery about McGillin’s, especially now, when the façade of the pub is outfitted for the season, looking like a big shiny gift just waiting to be opened. And it doesn’t stop there: Inside are draped garlands and lights and enough holiday hoopla to boost anyone’s flagging spirits.

Although it is Philadelphia's oldest pub, McGillin's has changed hands only twice since it opened in 1860 -- both times within the same family. (In 1993, Mary Ellen and Chris bought the pub from her father and uncle, who had purchased it from the original family owners in 1958.) This family feeling permeates the business, and during the holidays Mary Ellen and Chris go about decorating McGillin's as though they were at home. Although they must slightly adapt their domestic style (natural evergreen and collectible ornaments) according to the safety needs of the pub (flame- and shatter-proof materials), there are no new twists. They are not about to fall upon the latest color scheme or embrace foil. When it comes to dressing McGillin's for the holidays, Mary Ellen is in charge of remembering where everything goes so that the decorations look the same year after year. Her customers "feel comforted" by the consistency, and this is the cardinal rule of home-style holiday decorating: Repetition equals tradition.

Maybe it's because Chris and Mary Ellen were elementary educators before they bought the pub, but they have worked out a simple see-Dick-run, step-by-step plan:

1) The crew lays out rows of garlands.

2) The garlands are systematically rotated and "fluffed," so there are no flat spots.

3) The garlands are wrapped with lights and hung.

4) Then comes the ornaments and 5) next, the bows.

It takes 15 people about five hours to prepare and hang:

1,000 feet of garland

1,200 feet of lights (30 sets of 100 each for a total of 3,000 lights)

150 red bows

200 ornaments

The effect is charming: warm and artless. But nothing is haphazard. "We always decorate on a Sunday when we're closed," says Chris, "scheduling it around the Eagles game so the workers won't get so distracted."

In addition to creating Christmas in the pub, the couple hosts an open house at home, a tradition that started when their children were very small. “We stopped traveling during the holidays because we thought the center of our children’s life should be our home,” says Chris. Over the years, the Christmas Eve party has grown from eight people to 50. The menu is elaborate and preparations extensive.

“We used to make our hors d’oeuvres,” says Mary Ellen. “Our kids loved to wrap little hot dogs in pastry and figs with bacon, but they’re too labor-intensive. Now we do more of an antipasto table so we’re not slaves to the kitchen.”

Everything that can be ready in advance (like setting up the table, bar and coffee station) is done about a week ahead of time. But when it comes to most of the food, Mary Ellen starts at the Italian Market on Christmas Eve morning.

“The stores are open early, about 7 a.m., and the lines are long. But the people are friendly and the atmosphere is festive. So be why not be patient and soak in the Christmas spirit?”

Three Things

Mary Ellen and Chris Mullins on Holiday Decorating

[hip hop] Decorating for the holidays really starts in January when we take it all down. Organizing and labeling before storing is the key. Plus, this is the time to buy on sale.

[hip hop] Always spot your outlets first so you can string your lights accordingly -- and use a limited number of designated outlets or else the network of wires gets too confusing. Always keep the lights turned on while you work with them so you can tell how they look (and if they fail) as you hang them.

[hip hop] Keep all your helpers focused by giving each person the tools and materials needed to do their job. (At McGillins, each worker gets a carpenters apron with green hobby wire, wire cutters, hooks and an awl.)

Liquid Christmas Cheer

Nutty Irish (in a 7-ounce glass)

1-1/2 ounces Bailey's Irish Cream

3/4 ounce Frangelico

Pour over rocks. It's more Irish if you don't measure.

Poinsettia Punch

1 magnum champagne

64 ounces (2 quarts) cranberry juice

16 ounces orange juice

10 ounces Triple sec

Garnish with orange slices.

WebLog

Lights Fantastic

Whether you loved them the first time around or are just a youngster with a retro-aesthetic, vintage Christmas decorations are a popular collectible. For an extensive and fascinating study on the history of Christmas lighting -- especially period lights from the '50s and '60s -- go to www.oldchristmaslights.com. Or tour Paradise, Pennsylvania's National Christmas Center, a 20,000-foot museum of Christmas memorabilia at www.nationalchristmascenter.com.