Phoenix Stirring

by Bruce Schimmel

There’s news from Phoenix Foods, the fledgling basil farm in a former brownfield in West Philly and the subject of a CP cover story in early October.

Phoenix Foods is the brainchild of Lance Haver, a consumer advocate who turned entrepreneur, in part, to prove a point. Haver wanted to prove that savvy, small businesses can pay a living wage to inner-city workers. And that businesses which are owned by their employees will bring real wealth to the city, by keeping money in local hands.

A lovely idea, but as of last month still unsuccessful, even bordering on failure. After burning through most of $1.7 million in start-up, Haver needed to sell 85 cases of fresh basil a day to keep the hydroponic farm afloat. As of October, he was selling only about 25 cases daily.

Haver needed a major supermarket as a customer. The former consumer advocate was hoping that consumers would say something to supermarkets on his behalf.

Several did. In mid-November, Acme Supermarkets decided to give Phoenix Foods a trial. Haver is up to 50 cases a day and is hiring more workers.

"We're halfway around the proverbial corner," says Haver, who credits Acme's owner, the Albertson's chain, for their enlightened decision to be more community-based in their choice of suppliers.

Most large food chains tend to buy products from a limited number of sources, explains Haver. It's easier for them to use a single supplier nationwide for a particular commodity. Buying in large quantities also often results in cheaper prices -- at least for the supermarket -- despite greater costs of transportation.

Even though it has a national operation, Albertson's is turning to more local suppliers. With a ready market for their produce nearby, local farmers become less dependent on centralized commodity markets.

Commodity markets force farmers to grow food that competes primarily on price and the ability to withstand being shipped long distances. Taste and freshness become secondary considerations.

Phoenix Foods was conceived with the notion of helping Philadelphia's inner city. But the suburbs and the surrounding countryside also benefit when supermarkets -- and consumers -- buy locally. For if smaller farmers can make a living, they can better resist the temptation to sell to developers.

In other words, eating well can reduce sprawl.

A conference on Dec. 5 and 6, The Future of Our Food and Farms Summit, will address issues of bringing local produce to Philadelphia. More information: 215-568-0830 or www.foodfarm.org.