offthemenu

by Frank Lewis

Extremities: X’s are everywhere these days, and we aren’t even referring to that new Vin Diesel movie (Sam Jackson, what were you thinking?). If you need further proof that the word “extreme” is now ready to join “cool” and “def” on the list of words that have been commodified and marketed to the point of meaninglessness, check out the menus at local restaurants now that the X Games are back. For example, New Wave Café (784 S. Third St.) is offering “Kerry Getz Xtreme Wings,” named for the successful Philly-based pro skater and available in three intensities -- Amateur, Semi-Pro or Jackass. (Reached this week, Getz said he didn’t know about the honor, but added that he lives near the New Wave and likes the wings. His sauce preference? “I don’t know -- Amateur, I guess.”) London Grill (2301 Fairmount Ave.) is also serving Xtreme Wings; eat them with the hottest sauce and get more for free. Sansom Street Oyster House (1516 Sansom) has an X-treme Oyster Shooter (poblano pepper, pepper vodka and an oyster) and Lobsters FLASHED (caps theirs) -- the poor critters are “doused in butter and set afire on a blazing grill.” Cuba Libre (10 S. Second St.) has cranked out an entire Xtreme Cuisine Menu which includes “Dangerous Chicharrones: medallions of crisp alligator, mako shark and roast golden pineapples tossed in Cuba Libre’s mojo picante.” Will someone please let us know when we can get back to leading un-X-amined lives?

Over the river and through the 'hoods: University City continues to vie with Center City for diners' dollars. Among the new joints opening in August are Penne in The Inn at Penn (formerly the Ivy Grille), a self-described "pasta laboratory," at 3600 Sansom St.; Top Dog, a chain sports bar in the Sheraton University City, 36th and Chestnut; Green Line Café, a BYOB named for the Green Line trolley, at 43rd and Baltimore; and Vientiane Cafe, a Laotian and Thai BYOB at 4715 Baltimore.

Specials: Lacroix, the restaurant that replaces Treetops at the Rittenhouse Hotel, is scheduled to open in mid-September. Named for executive chef Jean-Marie Lacroix, formerly with The Fountain at the Four Seasons Hotel, the restaurant will offer a menu described as "simple, contemporary and ever-changing." ... Cibucán (2025 Sansom St.) has added a happy hour club, Thursdays-Saturdays, 5-7 p.m., and a "20/25" menu -- tapas, an entrée and dessert for $25. ... Las Vegas Lounge (704 Chestnut St.) gets ethnic, sort of, with Taco Tuesday -- two-for-one Coronas, $2 tequila shots and three-for-$1 tacos. ... Attention Iron Geeks: Shaun Ortolano, webmaster of the unofficial Iron Chef fan site at www.ironfans.com, has added photos and desktop wallpapers from his recent visit to Chestnut Street's outpost of Iron Chef-dom, Morimoto. The Iron Chef Japanese himself posed for one shot.

Got a tip for Off the Menu? Contact Frank Lewis at flewis@citypaper.net or 215-735-8444 x 204.