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July 12-18, 2002 food Twenty21
First: Despite sharing its fountain-fitted deep-set courtyard, one bar and an address, Twenty21 is not Cutters, the restaubar that from 1989 became a de rigueur happy-hour haunt for Philly’s big-biz babies. Not that boys in suspenders and the skirt-and-sneakered women who love ’em are bad. Just the outfits. Sue Mahoney and Mick Houston saw that crowd. They worked Cutters and loved it -- enough to buy the biz when corporate HQ opted out of lease renewal. Enough to make it their own with chef Martin Doyle of Manhattan's famed 㛅' Club. The immediate change in Twenty21 is in its ambience: a studied, arid, intimate warmth with a subtle, dusky vibe in its ambers, plums, blacks and shimmering bronze unified by sheer white curtains. Staring up from dining level one, an immense high-ceilinged space courtesy of DAS Architects, the design team responsible for T21's makeover, there's a sensation of air. A nimbus of light emanates from custom parchment-paper chandeliers and softly bounces off the slender balcony level's acrylic white walkway. This dining area -- mixed and matched group tables and small semicircle banquettes with plum-maroon seating, surrounded by glittering drapes and geometric-dotted carpeting -- gives off the scent of Old World New York dinner club; something Damon Runyon or Carole Lombard would make home. At the very least, they'd hang in the lounge and bar area or its private-party room. Each spot, set apart by white curtains, pays homage to the lounge's mainstay: a sky-high, booze-filled mahogany and gold-specked wall that could've been designed by Gustav Klimt after a liquor bender with Egon Schiele. This dense, brooding room and its angled immense ceilings is so elegantly evil and grandly German expressionist, the fab-damned thing practically peers over you in Golemlike fashion. You'd never have been able to explain that to someone in a skirt and sneakers. Twenty21, 2005 Market St., 215-851-6262.
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