Under the Table

by Marc Kravitz

Over the past few years, I’ve patronized many of the “fine dining” establishments of the Delaware Valley. (And when we’re talking “fine dining,” we’re talking “bust out the plastic and worry about it when the statement comes at the end of the month.”) For my money, Savona, the Gulph Mills bistro featuring Italian Riviera cuisine, is unsurpassed.

Last Friday’s Book and the Cook event at Savona was an evening of bliss -- besides, of course, the one-hour commute along the Schuylkill during rush hour -- for yours truly. Not only did I have the opportunity to dine at one of my favorite restaurants, I was in the presence of greatness. Andrea Immer, author of Great Wine Made Simple, joined executive chef/owner Dominique Filoni and his owner-partners, Evan Lambert and Sabine Filoni, for a wine-paired six-course epicurean dinner.

In the world of wine, Andrea has reached the pinnacle, having been awarded, in 1996, the title of master sommelier from the Court of Master Sommeliers. This gives her the distinction of being one of nine women in the country and 10 in the world to hold that title. (Hometown gal Marnie Old appears to be on her way to bumping the number up to 11.)

For those looking to educate themselves -- novices as well as aficionados -- on the topic of wine, renowned winemaker Robert Mondavi says of Andrea and her book, “One of the best sommeliers has written one of the best wine books.”

If haute dining is comprised of experiencing superior cuisine and broadening one’s culinary horizon, our meal was successful. The six-course collaboration between Andrea and chef Filoni freed us, at least for an evening, from today’s ubiquitous menu staples: French onion soup, seared tuna and the flourless chocolate torte.

A sextet of international wines accompanied, in order: Mozambique Langoustine; Virginia black sea bass over truffled fork-mashed fingerling potatoes; Sonoma Farms duck with a herb risotto; porcini dusted Australian lamb loin with sautéed maitakes and hedgehogs; a plate of artisanal cheeses; and an apple-stuffed vanilla crepe in a caramel sauce.

Although The Book and The Cook reunites just once a year, Savona has similar offerings twice per month for those looking to indulge in a wine-paired event.

I often refer to restaurants with an average entrée price of $30 and above as “occasion restaurants,” for no other reason than, for most of us, we frequent the like only on special occasions. With luxurious prices come mountainous expectations. Without naming names, I have been disappointed more times than not when splurging.

Last fall my wife and I chose to celebrate our first wedding anniversary at Savona -- the full dinner for two costing upwards of $200 with tip. It was worth every penny. When spending this kind of coin, we, as patrons, want to feel special -- roll out the red carpet, and give us bells and whistles, in addition to feeding us morsels of gold. The husband-and-wife Filoni team, along with Lambert, pull off the rare feat of providing sublime fare, impeccable service, handsome décor and romantic ambience.

For Savona, we’re even willing to leave Center City -- when it comes to restaurants, the occasion is rare that we depart downtown, let alone venture into the ’burbs -- and deal with God’s cruel joke on Philadelphians, the Schuylkill Expressway.

For those who have had enough of Coors Light-type happy hour scenes, members of the Rittenhouse Row Restaurant Committee are kicking off “Thursday Nights on Rittenhouse Row.” Nearly two dozen participating restaurants -- yes, even the haute ones along Avenue of the Arts and Restaurant Row -- are offering drink specials, complimentary hors d’oeuvres or entertainment (April through June, from 5-7 p.m.). Although the official commitment by participants is to comply on Thursdays, many of the partakers practice the ritual on a daily basis, including Brasserie Perrier, Alma de Cuba and Striped Bass. Trust me that chef Chris Scarduzio’s (of Brasserie Perrier) hors d’oeuvres, even complimentary ones, are well worth the visit.… Caviar Assouline (Fifth and Vine) is jumping on Old City’s First Friday bandwagon with “caviar hour” the first Friday of each month, from 5-6 p.m.… Davio’s has bumped up its wine list to 250 different selections. And speaking of the Northern Italian steak house, they will be the site for the taping of a locally produced current events show, Let’s Talk About It, shown on DirecTV.…Marnie Old is teaming with some of the area’s most knowledgeable beer experts to lead beer education classes at Ludwig’s Garten. For info, call 215-351-9985.… Cadence at “The Sid” has begun serving Sunday brunch, from 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. The menu features innovative twists on classics such as French toast, as well as highbrow fare like poached eggs with braised short ribs.

Marc Kravitz is the author of the $18 and Under dining books, available in area bookstores.