May 13–20, 1999

food

The Grill Next Door

An updated suburban hangout that's improving with age.

by Maxine Keyser

Montgomery Grill

261 Montgomery Ave., Bala Cynwyd, 610-664-3000. Lunch: Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m.; Dinner: Mon.-Thu., 5:30-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m.; Sun., 4:30-9:30 p.m. Wheelchair access.

My mother and my aunt used to love The Tavern, the venerable restaurant that was almost a landmark on Montgomery Avenue in Bala Cynwyd. After it closed, and Jake and Oliver's came in for a brief stay, it certainly wasn't for them. Now Montgomery Grill seems firmly in place there, and though they might approve of its stylish, clubby atmosphere, it still isn't for them.

The Grill is for the old gang that used to fill the long-departed Gatsby's (further out on Montgomery Avenue) and their well-to-do offspring. Actually, the clientele includes enough young marrieds that they've recently installed a nanny service for Sunday evenings between 4 and 9 so that parents can dine in peace. But then, proprietor Adam Simon is young himself, although he's already been GM at The Palm in Center City, and the operations manager for the Main Street Restaurant Group. Chef Edwin Hepner circuitously came from there as well, and the two of them, with an ambitious menu and some original touches, are making an impression on the suburban restaurant scene.

I'll admit my first impression wasn't too good. Sure, I liked the way they'd opened up the bar area and lined it with comfortable sofas and chairs, and put large booths in the now-bright, pastel dining room—even though the back room had a slight feel of Siberia, despite the fireplace. I was charmed by the blowups of vintage Philadelphia photos that decorate the walls—South Philly street scenes, Connie Mack stadium, even the opening of the Bala Shopping Center. But as for the food, well, the grilled calamari was inedible, a jumbo shrimp cocktail was measly and flaccid, and the grilled half-chicken was dried out. The only thing that convinced me to come back was the small sirloin steak ($23, $26 for the large), which was really quite good.

So I returned reluctantly for lunch, and found that things had improved considerably. The calamari ($8) this time was quickly grilled to just the right bite, and although I didn't love it with the horseradish-spiked cocktail sauce that came on the side, that sauce worked just fine with the shrimp cocktail ($12) that now consisted of four truly jumbo, firm shrimp. A hearts of palm salad ($6 lunch, $8 dinner) did not come chilled to death, as so many are, and was piled on greens and chopped tomato with a zesty vinaigrette. The L.A. Shrimp Salad ($11) was a terrific chopped combination of lettuce, avocado, tomato, medium shrimp and bacon with a creamy dressing, reminiscent of a "Milan" salad.

I already knew that the steaks were good, and noted that the prime rib also comes in two sizes (large $25, small $19)—a good idea for smaller appetites. They also feature a veal porterhouse ($26) that I've only encountered in one other place, an attractive alternative to a chop ($28). Seafood options include a lobster casserole ($19 at lunch, $22 at dinner) and—my choice—soft shell crabs.

These seasonal delights ($11 at lunch, $27 at dinner), quickly sautéed, came dusted in cornmeal and were surprisingly plump and juicy for so early in the season. One (served on a roll with excellent tartar sauce) was quite enough at lunch, considering there were so many vegetable sides to try. The deep-fried zucchini chips ($3 at lunch, $5 at dinner) are supremely addictive, sweet and crunchy. Among the various potato preparations, sweet potato fries could become another addiction.

I then turned to my companion's crab cake ($10 at lunch, $24) and found it to be one of the best I've had. First off, it's broiled, so there's nothing between you and the dulcet crab and a few scattered green and red peppers. The binding tasted somewhat like the creamy tartar sauce that came with the soft shells, and I would have preferred some more of this on the side. The chef, however, seems to like pairing the cocktail sauce with everything. It's very snappy, but three times in one meal is too much.

The restaurant features a daily lunchtime frittata ($9), and I was glad to pay $2 more for that day's version—fluffy eggs, crabmeat and asparagus, blanketed with golden Jack cheese. That, and some of the whole-grain Le Bus bread they offer, could have been lunch alone. Lunch seems to be an important meal at Montgomery Grill. The parking lot is full of late-model cars, and a business buzz floats over the front booths. They serve a 10-minute lunch if you're interested—10 items with soup or house salad or Caesar salad and a beverage, in 10 minutes for $10. It sounds like a great idea, especially with an available variety that ranges from steak pot pie to a chicken sandwich, but do the locals take advantage of this? Though as a fast-food option it certainly beats McDonald's at your desk, lingering here might prove too appealing.

The warm white chocolate brownie ($6) is the dessert of choice, in spite of N.Y. style cheesecake, chocolate cake, etc. It's a white chocolate brownie caramelized beneath white chocolate ice cream and chocolate sauce, and it's sinful. Remember to order it at the beginning of the meal, however, if the waitstaff doesn't remind you. They probably will, because throughout my meal they proved uniformly helpful and courteous.

Lest I forget, another plus here is the wine list—it's extensive, California-directed, and a bit pricey, but now the intrepid Mr. Simon has introduced half-price on Monday evenings for any bottle of domestic wine. Simon is bursting with good ideas, as you can see, from the nanny program on down to a Lobster Fest in May that gives you two lobster dinners for $19.99, an amazing bargain. (And let's not forget jazz on Wednesday evenings.)

Perhaps some of the rumblings from the locals that I've heard consistently, that Montgomery Grill is a shade too expensive for a neighborhood spot, are being heard. Certainly Simon seems to be trying to give you more for your money, and the lunch prices are gentler. He's determined to give the burbs a restaurant turning out world-class American classics—great steaks and seafood in a warm, friendly dining room, terrific martinis or wine at a cozy bar, fire-lit in winter. If you had asked me before if he would succeed, I would have been doubtful. Now, he may have his stumbles, but I stand corrected.