May 3–10, 2001

food

Under the Table

by Marc Kravitz

The Old City Civic Association’s development committee unanimously vetoed restaurateur Avram Hornick’s proposed extended outdoor seating in the parking lot adjacent to Lucy’s Hat Shop. (Hornick already has sidewalk seating along Market Street in front of his bistro.) "I respect the neighbors and their concern with noise, but the issue we had…[the committee] really never gave us the chance to communicate what we could do," said Hornick. He also mentioned he’s attempted to contact development committee chair Richard Thom to discuss the situation, but Thom has not responded. Speaking on behalf of the Old City community, a highly agitated Thom told me Hornick has the opportunity to appear before the board every other Tuesday when they hold their meetings. "He has an agreement that he will not extend past his outdoor sidewalk," said Thom. "The state liquor control board can grant him this extension. If so, we will take the decision to court." ...On another note, the always-inventive Hornick is a few weeks away from launching a "Mile High Club" promotion at one of his other Old City spots, Proto. Each Wednesday at midnight (which technically is Thursday) they will draw a name out of a hat and the winner can take whomever they want as their "date." The date is a commercial flight the following Wednesday at 7 p.m. out of Philly International to Columbus, OH, and then back again. "It’s up to them if they want to go for it and join the club," said Hornick.

Chestnut Grill chef/owner John Arena is opening his second restaurant on the outskirts of the Chestnut Hill Hotel. Stella Notte, tentatively scheduled to open Memorial Day weekend, will be in the vacant space above the Melting Pot most recently occupied by Pollo Rosso. Much like Pollo Rosso, the menu will feature Italian fare and wood-oven pizza, but with high-end steaks added to the repertoire. In an effort to combat the what-is-there-to-do-after-dinner-in-Chestnut-Hill conundrum, Arena is contemplating adding live music for the post-dinner crowd. The executive chef will be Scott McCleer, who most recently was sous chef at Krazy Kats in Delaware.

Rock Lobster recently reopened for what will be its 10th anniversary season. Outdoor venues such as the Beach Club and Amazon— one-time peers of Rock Lobster — are but distant memories, so what’s the deal with this open-air spot that it still attracts our town’s most eligible singles and the who’s who of Philly each and every Thursday, Friday and Saturday night? "[Owner] Marty Keenan," said general manager Clark Maloney. "The man is an icon." Rock Lobster is throwing an 80th birthday bash for the sociable Keenan on July 11, though he actually turns 80 this November. Keenan is battling his third bout with cancer, but remains involved in day-to-day decision-making.

Philadelphia Fish & Company is jumping on board in support of the area’s newest minor league baseball team, the Camden Riversharks. Beginning May 11, they will have a gourmet "shark dog" sandwich available (at the bar, on the outdoor deck or take out) throughout the baseball season. The $2 dogs (another buck gets you a pint of Flying Fish beer) are made of fresh mako and are being prepared by sausage makers D’Angelo Brothers of South Philly.

In a tribute to mothers around the world, Hotel Sofitel is flying in the mother of recently hired executive chef Guy Reinbolt — of Chez Colette— from Alsace, France for Mother’s Day. Liselotte Reinbolt will work side by side with her son from May 8-13 preparing some of Guy’s favorite childhood recipes, such as Quiche de Saumon and Quashcwa Kuerera (plum tart). Chez Colette will have two seatings for Mother’s Day brunch.

Ciboulette has a new man heading up the kitchen. Steve Baum, who was most recently executive chef at Zanzibar Blue, was hired a few weeks ago as chef de cuisine. He is a 1980 graduate of the Culinary Institute of America.

Delilah Winder of Bluezette was recently in the Big Apple taping a "Chef on a Shoestring" segment for CBS’ Early Show. Since the piece will air the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend, Winder prepared a picnic-style meal comprised of fried chicken, fried green tomatoes, cornbread and apple pie — all with a Caribbean flair.

Marc Kravitz is the author of $18 and UNDER: The Guide to Reasonable Dining and Entertainment in Philadelphia, available at all bookstores.