In this week's South Philly Review restaurant critic Phyllis Stein-Novack heads out of her favorite restaurant comfort zone i.e. East Passyunk and over to Filter Dining Room (2201 Spruce St.).
The space that was once home to Melograno and Meme did not disappoint. Beginning with glasses of Picpol and gougeres PSN and husband Edward began with gnocchi and oysters.
Light-as-a-feather gnocchi were tossed with peekytoe crab and PSN deemed the dish sweet and succulent.
Given that PSN has never met an oyster she didn't like Fitler's butter poached Wellfleets fared quite nicely: "It was bursting with flavor and was served warm. This was a fine idea. If the broth were too hot, it would’ve destroyed the flavor and texture of the oysters."
PSN's Moulard duck entree was sliced prettily and attractive to the eye and taste buds. Topped with in season peaches and plums, it's not a combo that she's usually a fan of: "I do not usually like fruit with duck or any fowl, but this worked perfectly."
Edward's striped bass was unusual, served atop a bed of vegetables generally found in minestrone. Seasoned and seared to perfection, this one got another thumbs up from PSN.
Desserts won serious points plus a bonus for homemade vanilla cookies that came with a pot of French press.
Perfect service plus comfortable banquettes and soft background music sealed the deal for Fitler's glowing three-and-a-half tips of the toque.
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